Outrage at Shein — a Western affectation?

Is awareness of the fashion industry’s impact on the environment and human rights the same worldwide? Thi Thanh Huong Tran, Professor of Marketing at SKEMA Business School, and Fabian Bartsch conducted research on this topic.

In recent years, a growing global emphasis on moral and social responsibility has encouraged consumers to make more ethical fashion choices, prioritizing human rights and sustainable manufacturing practices. International fashion brands like Zara and H&M have been increasingly criticized over unethical business practices ranging from labor exploitation to consumer discrimination to environmental damage.

For example, a recent Shein influencer trip to its factory sparked backlash, with accusations of exploiting marginalized influencers to promote propaganda, while the company continues immoral practices like underpaying workers, stealing designs from independents, and emitting around 6.3 million tons of carbon dioxide annually.

The West-East divide

Across cultures, when consumers encounter concrete evidence of a fashion brand’s ethical misconduct—ranging from worker abuse and child labor to racist advertising, weight discrimination, and environmental harm—they tend to react negatively by devaluating brand ethicality and lowering price considerations. This pattern suggests a global convergence of ethical concerns, often referred to as hypernorms.

Interestingly, the West-East ethical divide is documented in the moral rationalization process – by which consumers justify or condemn fashion brands’ unethical behaviors. Individuals’ moral sensitivity and judgments are nationally and culturally bound, reflecting differences in institutional frameworks and the understanding of social hierarchies and ethical practices considered fair and unfair in different national cultures.

In Western developed markets like Europe and the United States, stringent regulations—such as the European Union’s EU Taxonomy Regulation and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s guidelines—combined with strong consumer activism, foster an environment where a brand’s moral misconduct quickly faces intense public backlash.

Consumers in these regions hold companies to high ethical standards and are more likely to boycott unethical brands, participate in petitions, and engage in public criticism via social media. Corporate accountability is a central consumer expectation, making it difficult for brands to recover from moral transgressions.

Conversely, in Southeast Asian emerging markets like Vietnam and Indonesia, weaker regulatory frameworks, limited consumer awareness, and ambiguous ethical norms shape a different response. Here, affordability and accessibility often take precedence over ethical concerns, with economic priorities leading many consumers to tolerate questionable labor practices and environmental damage—so long as fashion brands provide competitively priced products.

While ethical awareness is increasing in these regions, consumers are more likely to rationalize moral misconduct compared to their Western counterparts. This moral rationalization tendency allows fashion brands in emerging markets to continue operating despite practices that might be widely condemned in more ethically rigid markets.

The Global Backlash Spectrum: Where Fashion Brands Face More Heat

Fashion brands do not face uniform consequences worldwide. In the West, where ethical consumerism is more ingrained, even a single scandal can result in financial and reputational damage for fashion brands. Social media platforms amplify these reactions, often leading to high-profile boycotts and calls for corporate reform.

Well-known brands such as Levi’s have previously faced severe backlash for environmental pollution, while high-end brands like Dolce & Gabbana have suffered heavy criticism for culturally insensitive marketing campaigns.

Conversely, in Southeast Asian markets, public outrage over corporate misconduct tends to be more subdued. While some ethical violations, such as environmental destruction and discriminatory advertisements, do trigger consumers’ negative responses, the levels of consumer reactions to moral misconduct remain significantly lower.

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Price sensitivity, economic dependencies, and limited alternatives make many consumers in these regions prioritize affordability over moral concerns, allowing fashion brands to continue operations despite ethical controversies.

However, this does not mean that all brands are immune to repercussions in emerging markets. There are growing signs of changing consumer expectations, particularly among younger generations who are increasingly informed about ethical fashion and quick to voice their concerns on social media. With governments in these markets tightening regulations and promoting awareness campaigns, fashion brands are under growing pressure to adopt responsible business practices globally.

What Fashion Brands Need to Know Moving Forward

The findings from our study highlight essential marketing strategies for fashion brands aiming to maintain consumer support across diverse cultural landscapes. Here are four key takeaways:

1. Enhancing Key Ethical Aspects That Matter Most to Local Consumers

Fashion brands in developed markets should invest in improving working conditions in manufacturing countries. Transparently highlighting these efforts in market communications reassures consumers and strengthens brand trust.
Brands must develop culturally sensitive marketing campaigns that avoid controversial topics related to race, culture, or discrimination. This is especially crucial in emerging markets, where missteps can significantly impact consumer perceptions and reactions.

2. Prioritizing Ethical and Moral Issues in Production and Marketing

Ethical practices and sustainable sourcing should be core priorities for fashion brands to maintain credibility and consumer support.
Companies must continuously (re)evaluate the impact of their business practices on consumer perceptions of brand ethics, as these perceptions directly influence brand evaluation and price consideration.

3. Localizing Ethical Messaging to Trigger Stronger Consumer Engagement

In Western markets, consumers respond positively to activism-driven campaigns that emphasize fair labor practices and corporate responsibility.
In Southeast Asia, brands should focus on gradual consumer education, incorporating social responsibility messaging to foster long-term awareness and encourage ethical consumption habits.

4. Ethical Branding Appeals to a Growing Market Segment

Certification labels and partnerships with reputable organizations reinforce a brand’s commitment to ethical responsibility, increasing consumer support.
Sustainable product lines and ethical marketing strategies attract ethically conscious shoppers while ensuring affordability for price-sensitive consumers, expanding the brand’s reach across different market segments.

The Future of Ethical Consumerism in Fashion

The study underscores the evolving relationship between culture, ethics, and consumer behavior. While Western shoppers are more inclined to act against unethical brands, Southeast Asian consumers often employ moral rationalization, making them less likely to penalize companies for transgressions.

However, as ethical awareness increases worldwide, fashion brands must recognize that certain violations—such as severe labor abuse and racial discrimination—are universally condemned. For global fashion brands, the challenge is to balance ethical responsibility with market-specific consumer behavior.

Investing in sustainability, promoting transparency, and tailoring ethical messaging to different audiences will be crucial for success in an increasingly socially conscious world.